iPad Pro 10.5 Not Charging Repair - Microsoldering - Troubleshooting - Full Process By VCC Board Repairs

What's up guys this is Jesse from Local digital repair. Today, we're going to fix an iPad Pro 10.5. It has no power, not charging. So just take a look at how to fix this, so it's a 10.5 iPad Pro came in for no power. First thing we do is plug it in to charge. Then we take a look at the USB meter, so we're now showing 0.005 as far as the amps and that's the important number, a good charging current our apps would be somewhere close to 1.0. So this tells us that the device is not drawing in any power, so next steps would be to check for any shorts all right, so the to check for shorts on iPads, it's oftentimes, there's no information on new on any software, so you kinda have to just make educated guesses.

So what I like to do is I like to measure for shorts around the p. m. I, see paint my seat, usually like this small, like somewhat small smaller than the CPU chip that has a bunch of caps and coiled around it. So I'll just probe around it so basically to touch both sides of the capacitor. Only one side should beep to ground so ground and I get point 149 in diode mode, 149, ground, ground, 149, 1:49, ground 149.

So this tells me these are all probably all the same lines because they give the same diode mode, reading and 149 ground and 49. So you kind of just oh yeah. It was 12 but I think might be normal. Excuse me, Oh point zero! One two I, don't think so. There are some lines that will give a low diode mode reading like a CPU or GPU line.

So let's ignore that, for now, usually VDD main is what we look for a short okay, so yeah I mean yeah, see this gives me six point: six, nine one two ground 5:11, then also just your hair, the backlight circuit, which is these diodes right here, these big coils. You know we just check for shorts kind of just click around or probe around my ground 0.4 and what me I don't think that might be normal. These might be CPU coils yeah, because you could see kind of hard to see from your angle, but this shares the same plane as these four sided capacitors. Usually those are CPU related, so I just assumed those are good, so next step would be to do the charging port. So let me show you how I do charge ports so here on this model? There's like the sticker right here then expose the solder joints.

Okay, this ain't going as smooth as expected. You know, fill it off, put it out to the side, all right so, first step. So this charging port is a flex type. It's basically a flat cable with solder gold like golden pins or whatever that essentially takes solder on both sides, and what we like to do is first fill it with this leaded solder. This has a lower temperature, lower melting point, just fill it with a ton of the solder I know it might not make sense to add more solder when you're trying to disorder something, but it actually does because you're creating a lower melting point and the more solder is the more heat that would be absorbed and held in place.

All right. So next step is I will get. My crusty steel block is to add weight to the board and hold in place. So my trick is I put my hot air to full 120 air and about floor dirty temperature. Celsius then put some solder here.

I get a ball blob of solder, hot down and I kind of just go at it. You know, I'm trying to do is say yes and see what I'm doing without blocking the camera. I just keep doing this over and over, and you can see the charging port just moving, because I'm blasting it with air and the iron it just comes right off, and then I have to risk I don't have to risk with ripping any pads, because there's just so much heats. You know the solder doesn't solidify, and I've I've experimented lots of techniques to see, know which one works best, and I feel like this is the best one. I've tried other stuff, and I was ripped with ton of pads.

So whatever just works for me and actually, if you look closely, you can see, I ripped a ground pad and the way I could tell as a ground pad is. If you look closely at the trace, it kind of has no trace it. Kind of just goes out to the open plain so to speak, of the board, there's just like adhesive here, so I'm, using my tweezers to clean it off it's weird brown stuff. By the way, this is like I'm. Sorry had a really weird angle, so I noticed I got some solder on these test points which don't really matter, I'm, not shorting, anything out, so I think it all just survived yeah.

So don't be. Judging my work, all right, the man movies I get a better view. Okay, so take a look, there's one panda seen here in this corner, but you said: if you look closely where that trace goes, it just goes into an open plane, so that's ground for sure all right. So let me get the new charging port. So this is how I organized there you go so this how I organize my components: I have a folder with a baseball card, I, guess slots or sheets, and then I put all the small components in here it is.

It works pretty! Well all right. So first step is put some flux here, because these pads are basically going to solder through the new flex, cable and then so take a look. It's just a thin piece of solder, joint I guess we call them all right and then this one is little difficult to do as it and Charon pro gets in the way. So what I like to do is put a few coins under the board to lift it up that way. I have the charging port can sit flat, so, so yeah.

So what I do is I have flux right here on the, so I have flex on the pads and then what I do is I'm a solder from this top, because this how it goes, so I rub the flux on it and flip it over to the correct side and then on these corners. There's these like guides, so you line it up on both sides. So you can see the there's like a square right here and a square right here. You line it up and when I do is I hold it by the center. With my finger, I get my iron I put some solder.

All you guys can see, so I hold it like this, and then I check into the microscope. It is lined up on both sides like that I'm, not to move it around. Get a blob of solder. Just get both sides much as I can, and now I could do the rest, so I'll just kind of feed it solders and move the iron around and when you're doing this doesn't press down but really just kind of go over it. If you see the solder not flowing into little bumps, like you know, to match the shape, put some more flex, as usually the situation, a lot of newbies run into where, like the solder, doesn't flow, it's because, you're, missing flux, I, just hate to say pop, then you always very important.

I see also a lot of new guys. You don't clean their work, so they'll use a ton of flux and then leave it there and then just nasty all right. So when I use, isopropyl alcohol, 99% or so I'm told it's good to have like a towel or something to absorb some nasty flux. Okay. So if you take a look, they're all soldered on, essentially you solder from the top through the Flex onto the board and that's how the solder makes connection you know to the board stuff.

So now next step is to give this a test all right. Let me stand this up. Okay, so let's take a look here. So I play this into charge, and it still says: 0.005 I'll play then, and then I have 0.005, okay, so the issues not to charge port. So what are you doing? What do I do next, so yesterday I had the exact same situation 0.005, and it was a charging port? So now it's not the charging port. So let's go on to the next step.

Alright, okay, so I know Tristan is in here. So just you know, take my word for it. I'm going to get my flex I'm going to add some flux to the shield. The shield is very takes a lot of heat to take off just in general. I pad boards take a lot of absorb a lot of the heat away from where you're working on I'm going to move this sticker out of the way it's actually, so they're sticker over here, I'm move out too I like it.

This angle, okay and my trusty little steel block to hold it in place. Let's crank up this temperature to 450. Now these temperatures are relative for me as 454, you might be something else, I'm telling you this video is like a live stream me and my phone just kind of record something for you guys. I noticed my last video, like maybe three months ago, three or four months ago, so I do want to make a lot more videos, just it's kind of hard to squeeze into, and you got a bunch of effects. Alright, so I'm going to go in circles.

The goal is to essentially not all the solder holding the shield down because he's so big and the board itself. But this shield is connected ground is essentially a giant think of it, like a giant steel block, flattened out across the whole board that just absorbs all the heat, whereas you know a signal or power line. Only the power line is connected to that I. Don't know how to say it. I firmly connected, there's light your amount so ground your essentially when you're milking it you're, nothing all of them across the entire board.

So these all physically connected so seeing the temperature sorry I'm, seeing the solder melt down the start, pulling up a little notes the shield starts lifting away, and I'm focusing on this corner. Like you know, I could see from my view. I could see the head all right and I. Just kind of thought: gotta be careful, because components and I don't want to bump them, especially with high temperature, is in, so I'm. Gonna.

Keep in mind is doing a quick visual inspection and don't see any bump components. That's good. Okay, so here is Tristan, just berries here, all right. So try starts this trip right here. So what I like to do is this: is the orientation dot on every chip that tells you where pin one goes a one, so I like to make a scratch on the board somewhere, where I know there's nothing there.

No data line is just like nothing, usually a shield or anything kind of indicate. You know put the chip on this side yeah, especially with an iPad. You don't have you generally, don't have any information as far as this stuff, so you got a record that yourself before you take it off so now, I'm going to heat it so right now, I have 420 with 115 air, because the iPad board I keep saying it takes up a lot of heat, so yeah work with higher temperatures, but also the thing is it's easy to work on, because you don't have to worry about overheating stuff there floating stuff, there's hardly any under fill' and most places on the on this board. Okay, so now set off the chip. There's a bridge right here, something's going to run my soldering iron over and pass kind of flatten them out, giving them out actually preparing the surface for the new Tristan.

So anytime, you solder it's good to clean up the area and put new you paste there flex. Sorry that way. It's always clean flex, clean flex, make sure there's no there nothing getting the way between the solder, and you know, on the chip to the solder on the board. When you get, you know, use flux like once it started burning, it starts. Creating like some nasty gunk and that actually blocks the solder from combining with each other if I mean I'm just speaking here in layman's terms, I know these are the proper technical terms regarding soldering, so yeah, so right now, I'm putting some more flux is a brand-new flux, cleaning board, there's no nasty burnt flux on there all right, let me drop the chip and then just go to put the right orientation to the dots right now is right here.

So let me push it. You know what I forgot to measure around it all right. Let me just do that real, quick before I put it on and just to make sure the short in that somewhere else, all right. The Tristan you're stuck on my tool right. So a good practice to do.

Usually you don't have to, but just for sanity check, so red probe on ground, so any kind of metal surface and then just probe the components around it for any shorts. So yeah, especially you, you probe both sides, so it should be some reading and grounds reading and the ground reading, or nothing and ground, usually a short means ground and ground. So look at in this case. There isn't, so I think we're good all right. Let me put this Christ this new Tristan over here.

You never want to reuse the Tristar as a power chip I, think it's electrically damaged, so recall rebelling an electrically damaged chip makes no sense. So don't do it I've seen some movies asking about that. So just for clarification, FYI tip Tristan, they're pretty cheap, so you know sometimes troubleshooting board issues is just you know. Replacing processor is a troubleshooting step in many cases, so for whatever reason, Chrysler fails, because so many poems Riparian problems and power problems in heard of it, causing audio problems and base band problems. So who knows just sometimes worth just trying it and see what happens? Okay, I see the chip moving in place and so-called dancing, and what I like to do is gently tap it and move it in place and snap back, so I know the solder.

The solder balls you lowered are good, give it a few seconds to cool down, maybe like five 10 seconds before you even do anything and then drop some isopropyl alcohol rub scrub, spray, spray, spray, I love this little hand pump it cost nothing, but maybe one or two calories of energy, okay, so cleaned off most the flux. Now, let's go test one more time all right. So what is him? Okay? So let me show you hereare the USB meter, so right now, I am plugging it in right now see how now goes above before it was 0.005. Now we have some number jumping around. So that's good.

That means we solved it, but you're seeing how it's just jumping everywhere. That's because there's no battery connected, so let's go ahead and plug in a battery, because this thing is trying to charge that something is not there. So it's kind of freaking out I say how I picture it's me put the sticker box. Actually that idea- and you know solder the shield back on okay, so we fit the board back in the house in I hate these cellular models. They have somebody around them: cables, okay, so this battery, okay, so make sure you put the right battery screw, make sure you'll line it properly.

Look inside make sure the hole is like in the center screw. To send all right so take a look now. I am going to plug it in and three two one plugged in point: zero: twelve, eight, twenty-four you go. So it's not 1.0 exactly it's 0.96, that's like almost 1, depending on what charger plugged into you'll get different readings. I know for sure this one specifically well, that is basically the highest it'll go, so I know it's good.

Let's play then it's charging, so that is how you fix an iPad Pro or any iPad. That's always the steps I take I first check for shorts around p. m. I see because I know that's where BCC main me: DD man will be there's no obvious shorts, then I will go to a charging port. I would say.80% of the time is the charging port, regardless of what target current it is I've. Seen like complete, like 0.005, is the charging port I have seen in 0.000. Try report I've seen like points to something starting port, so it's kind of you just never know I just say do.

The turning port is very quick might as well just try it rule that out it's not charging port, then I do Tristan. It's not tried, sir. Then it's most likely PMI, Sears or some other short and in those cases I just send it back. It's not worth spending any more time because I might not be able to solve it. I got some other stuff to do so hope you enjoy this video and I hope you guys learn how to properly do an iPad see you in the next video and stay safe.

Source : VCC Board Repairs